After the harsh demands of the Revolutionary War, Marblehead never fully recovered its former wealth and prestige in the fishing industry. Then in 1846 a storm sank half the fishing fleet, and 65 men and boys drowned in the waters off Newfoundland where they would sail for cod fishing each summer. People lost their heart for the sea and turned to shoemaking.
Walking along Front Street with the ocean nearly always in view, I could smell the sea salt on the wind. A few fishing boats floated in the harbor. But dry docked and wrapped in white plastic cocoons, the pleasure yachts waited for their summer season and their sails’ unfurling. In the late 1800’s the spell of the sea cast itself once again over Marblehead. At that time two fires destroyed the shoemaking industry as if the sea wanted Marblehead to return to her. Men of wealth began to bring their yachts to the exceptional deep and sheltered Marblehead Harbor. The destiny of the town again belonged to the ocean.
In the summer, 1,200 sailing boats dot Marblehead Harbor. Sailing enthusiasts will find boat makers and sellers, marine services of all kinds, and six yacht clubs, including the prestigious Boston Yacht Club located in Marblehead since its founding in 1866. Sailing races take place all season with a heavy focus during the last week of July, which has been Marblehead Race Week since 1889. And since 1939 the 360 nautical mile Marblehead to Halifax has been one of the preeminent ocean races of the North Atlantic. Marblehead to this day bears the distinction “yachting capital of America”.
The nature of the sea’s appeal for Marblehead has changed from 1700 to now. The sea has fed the folks of Marblehead, lined their pockets, made them strong, and satisfied their love of sailing. And she entices those of us, not from Marblehead, but who love the sea to come spend some time under her spell in this historic ocean town.